“I understand the angle. The kid who overcomes a background of addiction is a story that’s familiar to people, but here’s the truth: Ashtyn would be in the NFL whether I went off the rails or not. I guarantee you that. He was driven by a force far greater than his dad,” says Sean Davis.
Roughly 700 voluntary muscles are attached to the bones of the human skeletal system, like the rigging of some wildly complex sailboat. Consequently, bodysurfers don’t ride waves so much as captain flesh and bone. After he won the 2017 Pipeline Bodysurfing Contest in perfect head-to-overhead conditions, Mike Stewart was asked why he devoted so much time to such a practice. He thought for a moment then replied, “Because you are the planing surface. It’s up to you to create the shape.” (Pg. 122, The Surfer's Journal, 26-5)
"What Lies Beneath: Bodysurfing in the Key of Heavy" outlines bodysurfer Ryan Masters' first-person account of riding massive waves during the El Nino season of 2016 and a near-fatal mauling at Mavericks. (from 25.5 issue of The Surfers Journal)
Jay Collins created art and surfed in much the same way. He drew sleek, stylized lines across canvas and wave with a potent cocktail of emotion, creativity, and great technical skill. His work calls to mind contemporaries like Patrick Nagel—Japanese minimalism and Art Deco with a hard shot of alt-1980s—and captures a stylish Santa Cruz of a simpler decade.
Richard MacDonald’s studio feels poised to burst into movement. It’s a garden of kinetic potential, an expectant place of tightly wound muscle, a forest of half-formed and fully-formed bodies caught on the cusp of a leap, a pirouette. A crowd of beings somehow snatched from the flow of time a breath before some astonishing flourish of athleticism.
Mountain Feed & Farm Supply is an iconic fixture in the quaint Santa Cruz Mountain town of Ben Lomond.
The desire of the civilized to escape civilization has existed nearly as long as civilization itself. Examples exist in the Hellenistic, Roman, Augustan, and Romantic eras, and even from the Epic of Gilgamesh, one of the earliest surviving great works of literature. Over the last century, American backto-the-land movements have been led variously by political reformers, religious separatists, and perhaps most famously, the hippies.
Ryan Masters take us inside the mind of those who pioneered the infamous phenomenon known as "Ghost Trees." Breaking right of the 18th hole of the world famous Pebble Beach Golf Course, Ghost Trees has scared the living crap out of even the wildest hellmen. Featuring photos and insight by Don Curry, Peter Mel, Ken "Skindog" Collins,and Tyler Smith, among others.
In 1984, I was a foul-mouthed 12-year-old California exile living in the snow-white, Mormon enclave of Sandy, Utah. My father’s transfer to this Salt Lake City suburb a year earlier had marooned my mother and I in an inhospitable new world of cold winters, strange temples, and creepily polite prejudice.